The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah trainers, which are offered annually in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains a defining name in world-class shoemaking.
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