The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 1800s.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The line combines timeless classics with modern updates. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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